Reasonable Roofing — Header · "The Standard" theme
Serving Michigan Since 1984
A+ BBB Rated
4.8 Google Rating
Brown water stain spreading across a white interior ceiling from a roof leak
4.8★★★★★255 Google reviews
Emergency Roof Leak

Water coming in? Here's the next 60 minutes.

Emergency tarping · leak tracing · permanent repair.

An active leak is a race against elapsed time, not a storm date. Contain it, document it, then call — we'll tell you when we can be there, get a tarp on if weather is still coming, and trace the water to where it actually enters. Two Michigan offices, family-owned since 1984.

★★★★★ 4.8 · 255 Reviews
Since 1984
Licensed & Insured
Free, no-obligation estimate

Get your free estimate

Tell us what you see and where the water is showing up. A local expert calls you back.

Service Type Form Fill
Office lines are voice only — call or use this form. No spam, no pressure.
Since 1984
Emergency Tarping
Leak Tracing & Repair
Free Estimates
4.8★ 255 Reviews
Emergency or Not?

The 20-second check.

Three kinds of leak, three different clocks. Find yours.

Call now

Water is actively coming in.

Dripping or pouring, a ceiling that's sagging or bulging, water near lights or outlets, or more than one room wet.

  • Kill power to affected fixtures
  • Contain, then call
This week

It only shows up in hard rain.

A stain that darkens during storms and dries between them. It's urgent — every storm adds water — but it's schedulable.

  • Photograph it wet and dry
  • Note the wind direction that day
Schedule a look

An old stain that isn't growing.

Dry to the touch, same size for months. Could be a past leak that was fixed, or a slow one waiting for the next big rain.

  • Mark its edge with a pencil
  • Get it looked at before winter
The Leak Clock

What to do, and what we do, hour by hour.

The damage a leak does is a function of time. Here is how the first week actually goes.

Minute 0right now

Contain it.

Stop the water from spreading before you do anything else.

  • Bucket or bin under the drip; plastic or towels on the floor
  • Move furniture, electronics, rugs, and anything on the walls
  • Ceiling bulging? Poke a small hole at the low point and drain it into a bucket — a controlled drip beats a collapse
  • Kill the breaker to any fixture or outlet the water is near
  • Don't go on the roof in the rain — ever
  • Don't start tearing out drywall before it's photographed
Hour 1document & dry

Build the record. Start the drying.

Everything you photograph now is what makes an insurance claim work later — and everything you dry now is mold that never starts.

  • Photos: the drip, the ceiling, the attic if you can reach it safely, the outside from the ground
  • Screenshot the weather and note when it started
  • Fans on, dehumidifier running, closet doors open
  • Soaked insulation comes out — it will not dry in place
  • Call us. Tell us what you see; we'll tell you when we can be there and what to do until then
  • Call your carrier if the cause was sudden — wind, hail, a limb, ice
Day 1stabilize

The tarp goes on. To a standard.

A tarp is a bridge, not a repair — but a bad tarp is worse than none. Ours is done the same way every time.

  • Heavy poly run from above the damage over the ridge, at least four feet past it on every side
  • Edges rolled around furring strips and screwed into rafters — never held by grommets alone
  • Fastener locations recorded so the permanent repair closes every hole
  • Itemized invoice for your insurance file
  • If it's raining, we can still dry it in; the permanent work waits for a dry deck
Week 1solve

Trace it, then fix it for good.

The patch stops the bleeding. The diagnosis ends it. We find where the water enters — not just where it exits — and repair the failed part properly.

  • Attic trace uphill from the wet spot; hose test on a dry day if needed
  • Replace the failed component: boot, flashing, valley, chimney counterflashing, skylight seal, backed-out nails
  • Shingles and underlayment around it, ice-and-water shield where the eave was involved
  • Interior: drywall, paint, insulation — with photos, on the same estimate
  • Honest verdict if the roof is at end of life: repair what leaks, or stop paying for patches
The Ceiling-Stain Reader

What the stain is telling you.

Color, shape, and feel say how old the leak is and how urgent it is.

Light yellow, soft edge

Fresh. One or two wettings. The water is still finding its way — and the source is probably new.

Urgent

Dark brown, defined edge

Weeks to months of wetting. Minerals and tannins have concentrated. The leak has been active through several rains.

This week

Rings inside rings

Repeated wet-and-dry cycles. A leak that comes with certain storms — usually tied to wind direction or a specific flashing.

Trace the pattern

Wet, soft, or bulging

Active right now. Drywall is holding water. Drain it, contain it, and call — this is the one that comes down.

Call now
1234567
Where roof leaks actually start · hover or tap the numbers
The Leak-Source Finder

Leaks start at the transitions, not the middle of the roof.

1

Pipe boots

The rubber collar around a plumbing vent cracks from sun after roughly a decade. Symptom: a stain near a bathroom or kitchen. Fix: a new boot, a quick job.

2

Valleys

Two slopes dump water into one channel. Worn or debris-packed valleys leak in heavy rain. Symptom: a stain below where two rooflines meet. Fix: rebuild the valley with ice-and-water shield.

3

Step and wall flashing

Where a roof meets a wall or dormer, every course needs its own piece of flashing. Symptom: a stain along an upper wall. Fix: re-flash under the siding, not caulk over it.

4

Chimneys

Counterflashing pulls out of the mortar, crickets are missing, crowns crack. Symptom: a stain beside the fireplace. Fix: new counterflashing cut into the mortar joint.

5

Skylights

Seals age, flashing kits are installed wrong, condensation reads as a leak. Symptom: water at the skylight corners. Fix: re-flash or replace the unit.

6

Nail pops and field damage

Nails that missed the rafter back out and lift the shingle above them. Symptom: a stain in the open field, often after wind. Fix: reseat, seal, replace the shingle.

7

The eave in winter

Ice backs water up under the first courses. Symptom: leaks only during a thaw, along outside walls. Fix: the attic, not the roof — see the ice dam page.

Why the drip isn't under the hole: water enters at a transition, rides the underlayment and the top of the rafter downhill, and drops at the first joint or nail it meets — sometimes a full rafter length away. Guessing from the stain and caulking the roof above it is how leaks get “fixed” four times. We trace it from the attic first.

Stabilize vs. Solve

Temporary and permanent are different jobs.

Both have a place. Confusing them is how a $400 leak becomes a $4,000 ceiling.

Measure
What it is
How long it holds
Then what
MeasureEmergency tarp
WhatAnchored poly over the damage and the ridge
HoldsWeeks
ThenPermanent repair scheduled right behind it; keep the invoice for insurance.
MeasureSealant patch
WhatRoof cement or sealant at the suspected entry
HoldsOne season, maybe
ThenFine on a boot or a nail head; a red flag on flashing, valleys, or chimneys. We use it as a bridge, never as the fix.
MeasureInterior dry-out
WhatFans, dehumidifier, wet insulation removed
HoldsDay 1–2
ThenPrevents mold; doesn't touch the cause. Pairs with a tarp.
MeasurePermanent repairThe fix
WhatReplace the failed component and the shingles around it
HoldsThe life of the roof
ThenWritten estimate, manufacturer-backed materials, and the interior repaired on the same job.

A leak that stopped on its own didn't heal. Something plugged it — debris, ice, a swollen board — and it will open again.

The Michigan Leak Calendar

Different months, different leaks.

Knowing when it started narrows down where it's coming from.

March – April

The thaw

Ice dams releasing, attic frost melting, spring rain on a roof that just spent four months under snow. Leaks along outside walls and at the eaves.

May – June

Peak rain and wind

Michigan's wettest stretch. Wind-driven rain finds flashing, valleys, and any shingle the winter lifted. Most of our tarp calls happen here.

July – August

Pop-up storms

Short, violent downpours overwhelm valleys and gutters. Leaks that only appear in the heaviest rain almost always trace to a valley or a clogged transition.

November – February

Winter leaks

Condensation in a poorly vented attic, frost on the underside of the deck, and the first ice dams. Cold-weather repairs are possible; the attic is usually the real fix.

Insurance, In One Screen

Sudden gets covered. Gradual usually doesn't.

Covered, usually: leaks caused by a sudden event — wind, hail, a fallen limb, the weight of ice or snow — and the interior damage they cause. Emergency tarping on a covered loss is normally reimbursed as mitigation.

Not covered, usually: leaks from wear, age, or neglect. Roofs past fifteen or twenty years may be paid at depreciated value, and some policies now schedule that by age. The adjuster's first two questions are what caused it and how old the roof is.

Your part: your policy expects you to limit the damage once you know about it — that's the tarp and the dry-out. Photograph before anything is covered or removed, keep every receipt, and give prompt notice. Michigan law guarantees at least one year from the date of loss to bring a claim (MCL 500.2833); the state's insurance regulator, DIFS, takes consumer complaints at 877-999-6442. For the full claims process, see our storm damage and insurance claims page.

The Honest Part

Sometimes it isn't the roof.

About one in five “roof leaks” we trace ends somewhere else. We'll tell you, in writing, and not charge you for a roof repair you don't need.

  • A bath fan or dryer duct venting into the attic — condensation dripping back through the ceiling.
  • Attic frost melting on the first warm day, weeks after the snow.
  • A plumbing supply or drain line above the stain.
  • Window or siding flashing on the wall above — water running behind the siding.
  • An overflowing or back-pitched gutter pushing water under the drip edge.
  • A skylight sweating in winter, not leaking.
Related

If the leak has a cause you can name.

Roof Leak Questions

Answers for the wet-ceiling moment.

If water is actively dripping or pouring, a ceiling is sagging or bulging, water is near lights or outlets, or more than one room is wet — yes. Call now. A slow drip that only shows up in heavy rain is urgent but schedulable this week. An old, dry stain that never grows is an inspection, not an emergency.
We can stabilize it — a tarp or a dry-in goes on in the rain, and rain actually helps us trace where the water is entering. The permanent repair waits for dry surfaces, because sealants and shingles won't bond to a wet deck.
Water rides the rafters, the underlayment laps, and the top of the deck until it finds a joint or a nail to drop from. It can travel the full length of a rafter first. We trace uphill from the wet spot, in the attic, before we touch the roof.
Usually when the cause is sudden — wind, hail, a fallen limb, the weight of ice or snow. Usually not when the cause is wear, age, or neglect. Adjusters look at the cause and the roof's age. Your policy also expects you to limit the damage once you know about it, which is why we tarp first and diagnose second.
On a covered loss, emergency tarping is typically reimbursed as mitigation. Photograph the damage before we cover it, keep our itemized invoice, and don't throw anything away until the adjuster has seen it.
The EPA's guidance is that wet materials dried within 24 to 48 hours usually won't grow mold. That's why we push fans and a dehumidifier the first day and pull soaked insulation instead of hoping it dries in place.
A properly anchored tarp is a bridge, not a repair. Ours is furring-strip anchored into rafters, not held by grommets, and it will ride out weeks of weather — but the permanent fix should be scheduled right behind it.
Most leaks start at a transition, not in the middle of a slope: a cracked pipe boot, failed step or counter flashing, a worn valley, a chimney, a skylight, or backed-out nails. The repair is usually replacing the failed part and the shingles around it. When leaks are everywhere at once, the honest conversation is about the roof's age.
Probably not. Melt-only leaks are usually an ice dam backing water up under the shingles, or attic frost melting, and the fix is in the attic. That's its own page — see our ice dam guide.
Yes - the estimate is free, no strings. Emergency stabilization is quoted before we do it, the permanent repair gets its own written estimate, and if the honest answer is that the water isn't coming from the roof, we'll tell you that too.
Two Offices

Call the one nearest you.

Same crews, same standard, two dispatch points. We'll tell you when we can be there — we don't guess.

Port Huron office

(810) 984-3420

St. Clair, Sanilac, and Lapeer counties and the Thumb · 1605 Beard St, Port Huron

Call Port Huron
Troy office

(248) 800-3269

Oakland and Macomb counties · 1470 Souter Blvd, Troy

Call Troy
Every Hour Counts

Contain it, then call.

Tarp if weather is coming, trace to the source, repair it for good. Estimates are free.

Family-owned since 1984 · Michigan Builders License #262000657 · Licensed & insured · Office lines are voice only — please call.